¶ Introduction
The Digital Embroidery Machines (Melco EMT-16 Plus) in the Digital Textiles Lab is capable of translating your vector-based[1] designs into beautifully-embroidered pieces. Open Works has two EMT-16 machines, the embroidery digitizing software Design Shop Pro, and the machine control software MelcoOS.
¶ Shop Access
A membership or day pass is required to access Digital Textiles.
The Shop Safety Class Digital Embroidery 1: Shop Safety is required to operate the Melco EMT-16 Plus.
- The shop safety class teaches users how to safely operate the Melco EMT-16 Plus. It also goes over how to use Design Shop Pro and Melco OS to create and execute your digital embroidery designs.
¶ Machine Reservations
You can make machine reservations in the following ways:
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- In person at the front desk.
- Reserve a machine any time through our Mind Body Portal.
- Call the front desk during business hours at (410) 862-0424.
- Email us at frontdesk@openworksbmore.com. Please include your name, the machine you'd like to reserve, and the date(s) and times of the reservation(s).
¶ Machine Overview
The Melco EMT-16 Plus is capable of embroidering patches, t-shirts, and hats based on the designs members create on the computer.
¶ Needle type(s)
The digital embroidery machine uses DBxK5 commercial needles. Open Works provides size 75/11 universal needles.[2] However, it is best practice to use the right size commercial needle for whatever fabric or material you are using.
Members may perform needle changes, but should return the machine to 75/11 needles when they are finished if they change any needles out.
¶ Thread type
The embroidery machine only uses threads designed for digital embroidery. Open Works provides a selection of digital embroidery threads for free. As it is a community resource, we ask that you please only use what you require.
¶ Stitch types
- Satin Stitch
- Fill Stitch
¶ Best for:
- Light to medium weight fabric
¶ Software
- Adobe Illustrator or other vector graphics software such as Inkscape
- Design Shop Pro
- Melco OS
¶ Consumables
Open Works has stabilizer[3] available for sale at the front desk.
| Tearaway stabilizer per yard | 8" x 8" pre-cut stabilizer sheet |
|---|---|
| $0.60 per yard | $0.15 sheet |
¶ Recommended Suppliers
¶ Machines Available
- Open Works has two Melco EMT-16 Plus digital embroidery machines available for use.
¶ Machine Comparison Chart
| Machine | Stitch Type(s) | Fabric/Material Compatibility | Thread(s) to use | Compatible Needles | Needle Orientation | Bobbin spool type and diameter | Available Feet |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Embroidery Machine (Melco EMT-16 Plus) | Embroidery | knits and light woven fabrics | DBxK | Scarf facing back, groove facing forward |  L Style |
||
| Long-Arm Quilting Machine (Bernina Q24) | straight stitches | light and medium weight wovens, quilt batting | standard domestic flat back needles | flat back needles only go in one way |  Class M Bernina |
#96 ruler foot with cup clip |
¶ Parts of the Machine
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¶ Material Considerations
¶ Acceptable Materials:
Hats
¶ Use with Caution and Proper Technique:
Canvas
¶ Forbidden Materials:
Any materials that will make the machine excessively dirty, such as glitter fabrics
¶ Safety and Setup
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):
• Sturdy, close-toed shoes must be worn at all times.
• Long hair, jewelry, and loose clothing must be tied back.
• Ear protection is recommended when two or more machines in the lab are running at once.
For more information on shop safety visit Digital Textiles under "Safety."
¶ Workflow
- Prepare an image or vector. Get started here with Illustrator/Inkscape get started quick instructions while Digital Embroidery instructions are under development.
- Import image to Design Shop Pro and design the sew-out.
- Prepare machine and materials: hoop, fabric, stabilizer, thread, and everything else needed.
- Send sew-out to Melco OS and start the job.
¶ 1. Prepare an image or vector
There will be a detailed guide for this someday. In the meantime, some tips to get you started:
- Use Adobe Illustrator or Inkscape to create your vector file. Convert your raster image to a vector or create a new design.
- Design Shop Pro works best with .ai files. .svg files as created by Inkscape import with some.... quirks.
- Any colors that you set here are placeholders.
- Design Shop distinguishes between stroke and fill on objects and paths.
- Save design as .ai or .svg
¶ 2. Design Shop Pro
Find the detailed guide here. Below is the basic process to remind you of the steps.
- Open .ai or .svg file in Design Shop Pro by using File -> Open, or dragging and dropping the file into DSP.
- To open a second file next to the first, use Import, otherwise DSP will open a new design.
- Verify that your design imported as expected and make changes as needed.
- DSP has rudimentary vector path editing tools but relying on them to create your design entirely would add unnecessary struggle to your life.
- Do the embroiderizing process. Set stitch types.
- Save design as .ofm.
¶ 3. Prepare Machine and Materials
¶ Threading the Machine
Find the detailed guide here.
Quick Checklist
- Have you loaded the threads you are using for your sew out?
- Are all the threads embroidery threads?
- Is the thread OUTSIDE the cones before it is loaded into the hose?
- Is the thread threaded properly all the way down to the needle?
- Are all the tension wheels in the down position?
- Did you toggle the front grabbers to lock the loose threads into the back thread bar?
- Did you trim the top threads and bobbin thread?
- Top threads should be snipped just above the bobbin arm.
- Bobbin thread should be snipped at about 3-5 inches.
¶ Bobbin and Bobbin Arm
Find the detailed guide here.
¶ Bobbin Arm (holds the bobbin case)
- Did you remove the bobbin case clean out the bobbin case housing in the lower arm with compressed air?
- Did you check under the needle plate to see if there is any thread stuck? Use the tiny vacuum or compressed air to clean out this area. Or use a pair of tweezers to pull out any thread nests.
- Did you oil the rotary hook?
¶ Bobbin and Bobbin Case
- Did you clean out the bobbin case?
- Are you using the CORRECT pre-wound embroidery machine bobbins?
- The bobbins OW provides are located on the digital embroidery cart.
- If you are supplying your own bobbin, use only pre-wound machine embroidery bobbins compatible with the Melco EMT-16 Plus
- Is the bobbin loaded into the bobbin case correctly?
- The bobbin should be spinning clockwise as you pull.
- Did you check the tension on the bobbin thread using the tension gauge? It should be between 150-190.
- Is the bobbin thread wound through the pig tail? Make sure to do this before loading the bobbin case into the bobbin arm and leave about 3-5 inches of bobbin thread hanging outside of the case
- Is the bobbin case installed correctly in the machine? Did you hear a click when you loaded the bobbin case?
¶ Needles
Find the detailed guide for changing needles here.
Quick Checklist (Only do this for the thread colors being used)
- Are the needle bars oiled?
- Are your needles the correct type for your fabric?
- Use only DBxK5 type. OW provides sharps and ball points.
- Are your needles sharp?
- Needles should be replaced every 4-10 hours of sewing.
- Are the needles installed in the correct orientation and facing 5 degrees to your right?
¶ Hoop and Hoop Arms
Find the detailed guide for hooping material here.
¶ Hoop Checklist
- Did you stack the fabric and stabilizer properly?
- Did you check if the fabric is loosely hooped or hooped too tight?
- Is your project oriented the right way to prevent your design from being sewn upside down or on the wrong side of the fabric?
- Is the hoop loaded properly on the hoop arms?
- Did you hear a click as it locked behind the notches?
¶ Hoop arm Checklist
- Are the hoop arms in the correct position for the hoop you are using?
- Are all four bolts tightened? (Always check between each sew out as they tend to loosen every time the machine is used.)
¶ 4. Using Melco OS and starting the sew-out
Powering on the Melco EMT-16 and Starting Up the Embroidery Software SOP
Find the detailed Melco OS guide here.
Running a File on the Melco EMT-16 Plus SOP
Quick Checklist
- Is the correct machine selected?
- The machine numbers are taped on the sides of the machine, easily seen if you are sitting in front of the digital embroidery computers.
- Is the (size of) correct hoop selected?
- Did you set your desired speed?
- Machines are calibrated to run at 1100 but 750 is a good place to start.
- Did you assign your threads?
- Did you perform a design trace to make sure your design fits inside the hoop?
¶ Machine Maintenance
¶ Troubleshooting
¶ Z position error reset
When Melco OS gives you the Z position error:
0. (Turn off at power switch?)
- Turn machine on at power switch
- Press red/stop (not e-stop) + center (target) button simultaneously on keypad
- Engage E-stop
- Power Off at power switch
- Power On at power switch
- Disengage E-stop
¶ References
¶ General
- Melco Tech Knowledge Base
- Most up-to-date instructions and guides from the Melco Tech team.
- MelcoOS manual: https://docs.melcocloud.com/articles/#!melco-os-advanced-interface-en/advanced-interface-manual
- Stabilizers and Toppings
- Threads
¶ Design Shop Pro (version 11)
- Melco Design Shop Pro Help Page
- Learning Design Shop Pro 11 VIDEOS
- Digitizing Process Basics Playlist VIDEOS
¶ Melco OS
- Melco OS Help
- Actifeed Overview
- Videos:
¶ Melco EMT-16 Plus
- Melco EMT-16 Plus Technical Manual
- Videos for each step
- Machine Basic Setup and Loading Design
- Basic Hooping Tension and Technique
- Hooping a T-shirt
- Using the Mighty Hoop Freestyle Fixture to Hoop
- Changing upper threads - EASY
- Changing upper threads - HARD, NO THREAD IN MACHINE
- Adjusting the Presser Foot
- Changing a Needle
- Bobbin Threading and Using the Tension Gauge
- Attaching and Moving Hoop Arms
- Loading a Garment onto the Machine
- Tracing and then Sewing the Design
- Bobbin Tension Troubleshooting
- Thread Break Troubleshooting
- Using Laser Alignment to Align Design Placement
- Finishing a Garment
¶ Video Walkthroughs
¶ Resupply Form
Click here to report any consumables needing to be replenished.
¶ Glossary
Vector: A type of 2-dimensional design format that uses equations rather than pixels to define an image. A vector can be scaled infinitely without loss of quality. ↩︎
Universal needles: A universal needle has a slightly rounded, sharp point with a tapered needle — midway between a sharp and ballpoint needle. ↩︎
Stabilizer: A piece of material that has been specifically designed to be used to provide support for embroidery.
[4]: Sew-out: The industry specific term for the job that the embroidery machine does. ↩︎