Open Works has a JessEm router table. You must complete Wood Shop 2: Jointer, Planer & Router in order to start using the machine.
The router is an extremely versatile tool that accepts a variety of route bits to create decorative edges, dovetails, rabbets, and a variety of other channels and profiles.
Router type | Handheld | E-Stop | Work piece size | Application |
---|---|---|---|---|
Router Table | small to medium | complex interior or exterior edges | ||
Trim Router | medium to large | long edges | ||
Plunge Router | medium to large | interior edges |
¶ Acceptable Materials
Hardwoods.
Softwoods.
Plywood.
¶ Use with Caution and Proper Technique:
Always check moisture levels with the moisture meter and look for nails with the metal detector.
Reclaimed lumber.
Logs.
Slabs.
Green wood.
¶ FORBIDDEN MATERIALS
DO NOT, under any circumstances, cut the following materials with the router:
Pressure treated wood.
Materials containing or coated with lead or lead-based paint.
Any pre-finished woods (for example: finished flooring, old bar tops, etc.).
OSB.
Particle board.
MDF.
Hardboard.
Safety Check:
Sturdy, close-toed shoes must be worn at all times.
Long hair, jewelry, and loose clothing must be tied back.
Safety glasses and earmuffs must be worn while machines are running.
A dust mask or a NIOSH certified respirator is recommended.
For more information on shop safety visit Wood Shop under "Safety."
The bit of this machine extends above the table and is unguarded. Be very careful of your fingers.
If your material is warped in any way, consider processing it through the jointer and planer before using the router. Material with at least one good flat face and smooth, perpendicular edges will produce a cleaner cut and be safer to work with.
Tools for the router are in the drawer in the table
There are several trays of router bits available. To ensure sharpness and the cut profile you want, you may wish to bring your own bit.
Make sure the crank is all the way into the socket by wiggling it gently.
The collet must match the shank size. The collets are bottom up in this picture to highlight the differences between them.
If you are using a very large bit or one with a 1/2 inch shank, set the router to a slower speed. The speed dial is on the underside of the router. Find a Community Technician if you're unsure about this.
Be sure that at least 3/4 of the shank length is inserted securely in the router collet.
Allow at least 1/8” clearance between top of the collet and the bottom of the cutting part of the bit.
Use the crank to lower the bit to the desired height relative to the work piece.
Install the insert ring. Use the one with the smallest hole that still clears the collet and bit. You can use your fingers to turn the ring into place, or use the insert wrench. The insert ring keeps your work piece steady and from being sucked into the work table.
7.1 Align the two small holes in the insert ring with the small holes on either side of the spindle.
7.2 The insert ring should drop in and become level with the table surface. If it doesn't, wiggle it back and forth until it does drop in.
Put away the crank and wrenchs. Clear the table of any non-work piece materials.
If the bit has a bearing and the depth of the cut from the edge of the blade to bearing is more than 1/4" OR if your bit does not have a bearing, the fence must be used as a guide. Adjust the fence to guide your cut.
The fence clamps on both sides.
There are many things to consider when making a cut on the router. Find details here: Making a Cut on a Router.
Conventional cuts go with the direction of the bit's rotation. The bit pulls the grain out of the wood and therefore is more prone to tearouts, but the cut is faster and the material easier to control. Good for edges and following templates.
Climb cuts go against the direction of the bit's rotation. Climb cuts are good for corners and across grain cuts. The bit presses the grain into the wood, reducing the possibility of tear outs but making the material harder to control. Press the material down against the table to keep it steady and resist kickback.
When using the router table, it is preferred to feed the material from right to left in a conventional cut- feeding the other way can cause kickback. The bit rotates clockwise and working with the rotation makes it easier to control and move the material at the increased risk of tear out.
To avoid tear outs you may wish to climb cut corners first, and then conventional cut the edges.
If you changed the speed of the router, reset the speed to how you found it.
How to cut dados using the router table.
JessEm page for the router table package.
JessEm router table package manual.
Family Handyman's beginner's guide to routers.
Woodsmith's beginner's guide to router templates.
Tearout: When the fibers of wood pull away from the cut edge.