Open Works has some tools for sharpening other tools. They are not typically available to members but members can use them.
Sharpening Stone.
Drill Bit Sharpener.
Grinding Wheel (located in the metal shop).
You do not need to reserve these tools.
Tool steel.
Everything else.
¶ Safety and Setup
Safety Check:
Sturdy, close-toed shoes must be worn at all times.
Long hair, jewelry, and loose clothing must be tied back.
Safety glasses and earmuffs must be worn while machines are running.
A dust mask or a NIOSH certified respirator is recommended.
For more information on shop safety visit "Safety" on the Wood Shop page.
Because you are sharpening tools, the cut, laceration, and puncture wound risks are much higher than they would otherwise be. Wear gloves or take other precautions.
There is a double sided sharpening stone in the chisel kit.
- Get the stone out, a small cup of water, a paper towel, and any guides you may be using.
- Set the stone on a comfortable work surface, coarse side up.
- Put some water on the stone.
- Set up the guides, if using.
- Drag the blade across the stone with the sharp edge trailing. Do not push the sharp edge into the stone.
- Repeat 4-20 strokes, depending on how dull the blade was. If it is a dual sided blade, flip it over and repeat step 5 on the other side.
- Flip the stone over to get the fine side.
- Repeat steps 3, 5, and 6.
- Rinse off the stone.
- Dry it as best you can with the paper towel.
- Set the stone out to air dry. Do not put it back in the chisel case until it is fully dry.
Use the Drill Doctor sharpening kit available in the wood shop. It is in a blue case and has an instruction manual included. Follow the instructions as written.
Chisels can be sharpened using the sharpening stone or the grinding wheel. Chisels should be sharpened until they are sharp and there are no nicks or chips in them.
If using the sharpening stone
- Get the stone out and set up according to the steps above.
- Get the chisel out and tightened into the sharpening guide that is also in the chisel case. This is fiddly and annoying.
Chisels are sharpened at specific angles. The guide has these angles written on the side and how far the chisel needs to project from the guide to achieve that angle.
- Scribble marker all over the bevel side of the blade. This will clearly show you what part of the blade is contacting the stone. Adjust until the flat of the blade is fully against the stone, or commit to reforming that angle. Generally close enough is good enough.
- 5-10 strokes of the bevel on the coarse side of the stone. Flip the chisel over and draw the flat over the stone once or twice. If the chisel is chipped, work the bevel side until the chip is gone.
- Flip the stone over for the fine side and repeat step 4.
If using the grinding wheel
- Scribble marker all over the bevel side of the blade. This will clearly show you what part of the blade has been ground and what has not.
- Before turning the grinding wheel on, practice holding the bevel of the chisel against the wheel to get the angle right.
- Turn the wheel on and bring the bevel to it.
- A couple of seconds will do.
Much like chisels, block plane blades can be sharpened using the sharpening stone or the grinding wheel. Block plane blades should be sharpened until they are sharp and there are no nicks or chips in them.
If using the sharpening stone
- Get the stone out and set up according to the steps above.
- Remove the blade from the block plane and tightened into the sharpening guide that is also in the chisel case. This is fiddly and annoying.
Block plane blades are sharpened at specific angles. The guide has these angles written on the side and how far the blade needs to project from the guide to achieve that angle.
- Scribble marker all over the bevel side of the blade. This will clearly show you what part of the blade is contacting the stone. Adjust until the flat of the blade is fully against the stone, or commit to reforming that angle. Generally close enough is good enough.
- 5-10 strokes of the bevel on the coarse side of the stone. Flip the blade over and draw the flat over the stone once or twice. If the blade is chipped, work the bevel side until the chip is gone.
- Flip the stone over for the fine side and repeat step 4.
If using the grinding wheel
- Scribble marker all over the bevel side of the blade. This will clearly show you what part of the blade has been ground and what has not.
- Before turning the grinding wheel on, practice holding the bevel of the blade against the wheel to get the angle right.
- Turn the wheel on and bring the bevel to it.
- A couple of seconds will do.
Lathe gouges can be sharpened using the sharpening stone or the grinding wheel. Lathe gouges should be sharpened until they are sharp and there are no nicks or chips in them.
If using the sharpening stone
- Get the stone out and set up according to the steps above.
- Scribble marker all over the bevel side of the blade. This will clearly show you what part of the blade is contacting the stone. Adjust until the flat of the blade is fully against the stone, or commit to reforming that angle. Generally close enough is good enough.
- Following the shape of the blade, do 5-10 strokes of the bevel on the coarse side of the stone. If the gouge is chipped, work the bevel side until the chip is gone.
- Flip the stone over for the fine side and repeat step 4.
- If the gouge is flat on the other side, draw the flat over the stone a few times. If it is rounded, use a piece of fine sandpaper, bent but not folded, to swoop through the curve a few times.
If using the grinding wheel
- Scribble marker all over the bevel side of the blade. This will clearly show you what part of the blade has been ground and what has not.
- Before turning the grinding wheel on, practice holding the bevel of the chisel against the wheel to get the angle right.
- Turn the wheel on and bring the bevel to it.
- A couple of seconds will do.