¶ Introduction
There are many things to consider when making a cut with a router. Some of them are outlined here.
¶ Skills/Class Required
A membership or day pass is required to access the Wood Shop. The following Shop Safety Class is required before using the routers:
¶ Before you Begin
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):
Sturdy, close-toed shoes must be worn at all times.
For more information on shop safety visit Safety on Wood Shop.
¶ Time to complete
Variable.
¶ Tools Required
- router
- tools to change bits
- fences and other alignment tools
- clamps
- pencil and measuring tools
¶ Materials Required
- scrap to test cuts or bits on
- work piece
¶ Topics to consider
A router table is often a handheld router flipped over and mounted to the underside of a table. Most advice applies to both tools.
¶ Types of cuts
Conventional cuts go with the direction of the bit's rotation. The bit pulls the grain out of the wood and therefore is more prone to tearouts, but the cut is faster and the material easier to control. Good for following templates.
Climb cuts go against the direction of the bit's rotation. Climb cuts are good for corners and across grain cuts. The bit presses the grain into the wood, reducing the possibility of tear outs but making the cut harder to control.
| Tool | Direction of Movement for a Conventional Cut | Diagram |
|---|---|---|
| Router Table | move material from right to left |  |
| Handheld Router | move router
|
 |
¶ Working in multiple passes for improved cut quality
It is recommended to not remove more than 1/8th to 1/4 inch of material in a single pass. Removing a small amount per pass makes the router's job easier, producing a cleaner cut overall, reduces the risk of tear outs, and makes holding and moving the material or router easier and safer.
Not all bits allow working in multiple passes. Cuts made with bits that are wider at the tip such as dovetail bits have to be done in one pass.
When working in multiple passes, it is recommended to set up a fence or other guide to ensure that the final cut is exactly where you want it to be.
¶ Tear outs
A tear out is when the fibers of wood are pulled away from the cut edge in advance of the cutting tool. This typically looks like chunks or splinters popping out of the wood before the cutting tool reaches those areas. The torn out pieces are often larger than what the cut would have been, damaging the material.
Tear out is typically caused by:
- cutting across the grain of the wood.
- cutting too much material in one pass.
- the router bit is dull.
Cutting across the grain of the wood is hard to avoid. It is recommended to use a climb cut do any across grain cuts first so that any chips or tear outs that are created can be covered up by cuts that go with the grain of the wood.
Cutting too much material in one pass can be addressed by incrementally moving the fence or other guide. The deeper a cut is, the more likely a conventional cut is to grab the grain of the wood and tear it out because there is more grain to grab.
Router bits can be sharpened, but that is not a service that Open Works performs. This is one of the reasons why it is recommended to bring your own bits.
¶ Burning
Burning occurs when the heat generated by the friction of the bit cutting the material chars the material. There are several factors that contribute to a burned cut:
- speed of the bit too fast for the feed rate
- feed rate too slow for the speed of the bit
- bit is dull and is rubbing more than cutting
¶ Templates
See jigs and templates.