¶ Introduction
The Serger machine is used for finishing edges of material and seams. The interwoven whipstitch has some give, so it is especially useful for stretchy fabrics such as knits, cotton blends, and spandex. The Serger machine uses cotton poly thread only.
¶ Shop Access
A membership or day pass is required to access Textiles.
The Shop Safety Class Sewing 1: Shop Safety is required to operate the serger.
¶ Machine Reservations
The serger does not require a machine reservation and is available on a first-come first-serve basis.
¶ Machine Overview
The Serger machine is used for finishing edges of material and seams. The interwoven whipstitch has some give, so it is especially useful for apparel and stretchy fabrics such as knits, cotton blends, and spandex. The Serger machine uses cotton poly thread only.
¶ Stitch Type
Whipstitch finish along edge of material. The serger is also the only machine that will trim the fabric as it finishes the edge of the material. Because of this, the serger is not recommended for stitching anything that is NOT an edge.
¶ Fabric Types
- Ideal for knit/cotton blend fabrics
- Spandex and other stretchy fabrics
¶ Needle
DC X 27 needle
¶ Thread
Cotton poly thread ONLY
¶ Machines Available
There is one serger in the Textiles shop.
¶ Machine Comparison Chart
¶ Parts of the Machine
The switch on the table edge turns on the machine and the overhead lamp.
Click to see which pedal does what!
The LEFT foot pedal under the table is used to “drive”. Release pedal to stop the machine. To lift and lower the foot, use the RIGHT foot pedal.
Click to see a labled diagram of the machine.
¶ Material Considerations
¶ Acceptable Materials:
Knit cotton and cotton blend fabrics.
¶ Do not allow any of the following to go under the knife:
Plastic.
¶ FORBIDDEN MATERIALS :
¶ Safety
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):
• Sturdy, close-toed shoes must be worn at all times.
• Long hair, jewelry, and loose clothing must be tied back.
For more information on shop safety visit Textiles under "Safety."
Follow these guidelines to sew safely and prevent jams:
√ Take your foot off the “drive” pedal when turning the machine on, threading, or changing a needle.
√ Keep your fingers away from the serger knife.
√ Keep needle guard down to protect eyes in case of breakage.
√ Only use serger-designated needles, with the curved indentation (or scarf) facing to the back.
√ Always thread front to back. (30C)
√ Only turn the hand wheel towards you, never away.
¶ Step-by-Step Guides
¶ Before You Begin
- Threading the machine.
- Make a test swatch in order to fully understand how the seam and knife interacts with your fabric.
¶ Using the Machine
The serger can operate without any material under the presser foot. It will produce a chain of thread, which is useful for ending seams and turning corners. If it does not produce a chain of thread, check to make sure it's threaded correctly.
¶ Starting a seam
- Press the right foot pedal to raise the presser foot.
- Place the fabric just under the foot and position so the edge to be trimmed is aligned with the knife.
- Release foot pedal to secure the fabric under the presser foot.
- Put the needle guard in place to protect your eyes and fingers.
- Place your hands in the proper safety positions to hold and guide the fabric. Hold the fabric with your left hand, positioned well away from the needles and the sewing path. Your right hand should guide your fabric and never get less than two inches from the needles and knife.
- Slowly press the left foot pedal to begin serging. Hold and guide your fabric, increasing speed slowly to a comfortable pace. Let the feed dogs pull the fabric through.
Never let your fingers go under the needles or knife while the machine is powered on.
¶ Guiding a seam
- Hold and guide your fabric, increasing speed slowly to a comfortable pace. Let the feed dogs pull the fabric through.
Never pull the fabric through the machine. Let the feed dogs advance the fabric as the machine runs. Instead, slowly press on the foot pedal to increase speed.
- Make sure that the tail on the other side of the knife is going down the chute rather than getting sewn in.
¶ Going around a corner
- Continue straight off the edge of the fabric for several inches.
- Turn the fabric and align the edge with the presser foot and knife.
The tail from the previous edge can be sewn into this seam and cut off by the serger, reducing the amount of finishing work that you have to do.
- Continue the seam.
¶ Ending a seam
- Continue serging off the edge of the fabric, leaving about 4-5” of tail.
- Take your foot off the drive pedal to stop sewing.
- Trim the serger tail close to the edge of the fabric. Leave the serger tail intact and connected to the machine.
¶ Cleaning up
- Turn the serger off by pressing the power switch on the table to the off position.
- Put tools away and clean up the serger area for the next member.
- Make sure to sweep up any trimmed fabric and thread off the floor.
¶ Machine Maintenance
Maintenance can be done by members. If you are not comfortable performing the maintenance and you think it needs to be done, please find a Community Technician to help you and make sure it gets done right.
- Changing needles on the machine.
- Oiling. Sewing machines should be oiled regularly and this is a normal part of their maintenance. Members should not need to oil the sewing machines.
2.1 Place a drop or two of oil on the joints.
2.2 Use the handwheel to turn to the mechanisms of the machine to distribute the oil.
¶ Troubleshooting
¶ References
¶ Video Walkthroughs
¶ Resupply Form
Click here to report any consumables needing to be replenished within the [Shop Name!]
¶ Glossary
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